What type of men’s coat is right for you?

In the winter, a man’s coat may say more about him than another other article of clothing and often it’s often his first impression. How often has a man dressed painstakingly for a date at an upscale restaurant, then thrown any old jacket over his clothes? If this sounds like you, it’s time to search for a new coat, whether a nice warm pea coat, a stylish leather jacket or a quilted coat.

Step 1: Climate control

The first basic function of a coat is warmth. If you live in a place where a coat is more an accessory than a necessity, opt for a lighter material and a shorter cut. You’ll want something more like a jacket that ends right at the waist like a pea coat.

Some Pea Coats

You’re probably protecting yourself from cold nights and rain, so look for a material marked waterproof. Recently there are options that fit every budget, from the high tech moisture wicking fabrics, good for sports, to the everyday rayon material. If rain is a big concern where you live, picture yourself with your hair plastered to your forehead—if that’s not your best look, opt for a coat with a hood. In a place where the winters are white, look for a longer coat that will hold in more of your body heat and that has a good, warm lining, specifically three-quarter or full length coats.

Some Three-quarter Coats

A trench coat should work in most climes as well. Wool and tweed are still very classic fabrics for coats that last a long time; read all the directions for storing and caring for these fabrics, however, because that can effect the durability. Lately, cotton polyester blends are common for every kind of clothing, including coats. These are easy to care for, and mostly you won’t have to dry clean them, which can be expensive.

Some Trench Coats

Step 2: Trendy or conventional?

Decide if you’re looking for a coat that will be a staple for several years or one that makes a statement about who you are now. If you plan to have only one coat in your closet, and you want it to last for several years, you need a black or a dark gray coat. These are a smart investment, and every man should have at least one coat that he can wear to work, out to dinner, and to a casual event with friends without looking improperly dressed. On the other hand, sometimes you want a coat that says something about who you are now. A good example of this is the leather jacket. Leather is retro and classic. Beware, however, of the silver chains or spikes. Retro can quickly become “dated” and turn your style into a caricature. If you go too far in one style direction, you will look like you’re trying very hard to fit into a crowd. The exception to this rule is that if you’re a biker, (not a Huffy but a Harley Davidson,) and your goal is to fit in with your fellow bikers, then chains and spikes will help you meet that goal.

Some Harley Davidson Leather Jackets

Because a coat is a way of signaling who you are to people around you, if you’re an outdoorsy kind of guy, wearing flannel, fleece, or a quilted coat will let people who might share those interests know that you’re the man to approach. When in doubt, choose a brand that has a sporty name; normally the brands are trying to be as consistent with their impressions as you are with yours. The corduroy sports coat and sports coats with patched elbows used to be associated with a 1950s, pipe smoking sort of crowd. These days the trend has reversed and it’s the younger generation giving them a new twist as they pair them with their favorite casual T-shirts or a button down shirt with jeans.

Some Corduroy Sports Coats

Mixing casual and classy livens up pieces you may already have in the back of your closet. Another trend that’s back in fashion is the elastic in the bottom of waist length coats that give them volume around the middle. In the eighties, these style jackets were worn in satiny fabrics and jewel and neon colors. They were seen on the biggest pop and rap stars, and as the eighties styles come back, the elastic waist is back as well. This style is good if you wear higher waist pants and your goal is to give your legs a longer look. The downside, though, is that the elastic will ride up to the smallest part of your middle. If you have a festively plump middle, this is probably not the coat for you. While it may give more space for the stomach, it draws attention to it, and often, in a year or two the very bottom snaps or buttons come undone. This doesn’t flatter a figure that might be very attractive in another shape of coat.

Some Style Jackets

Step 3: Understanding your body type

This brings us to another very important part of buying a coat, which is to buy the best coat for your type of body. The most coveted male figure among the famous is the inverted triangle. This shape is quite a bit wider at the shoulders than the waist, and stays a size pretty even with the waist in the hip and leg. If this is your figure, fantastic! Almost any coat would work on you, but the best coats will taper in from the shoulder to the waist to show this feature. A good choice in a short jacket is the newer style of motorcycle looking jacket in a non-leather fabric that zips. The high neck will draw the attention upward, toward the broader shoulders and a non-bulky fabric, like fleece, can be cut to fit much closer than the average wool or tweed tends to.
If you have a shape in which your shoulders, middle and hips are more in line with each other, then a coat with extra shoulder detail and a wider neck will give you the most attractive line. A horizontal line at the top of the coat, or coats that are a bright block of color on top, with a darker bottom color will bring your best features into focus. Some possibilities are sports jackets and military style long coats with the long strip of fabric buttoned across the top of each shoulder.
Men with the widest part of their body at the middle often feel uniquely challenged in choosing a coat, however, there are many attractive coats for men of this shape. In shorter coats, the length should hit about the top of the pelvic bone, a little past where your belt would sit. The coat should have wide lapels at the top. Ideally, the coat would have a straight cut and the buttons would be in rows on the sides instead of down the middle. If the bottom button does not fasten securely, the coat does not fit. If the weather is appropriate in your area, go without buttons and look more relaxed with a high neck shirt underneath. However, if you do this, buy a slightly larger size than you need so that the coat doesn’t always flow open, like wings, and leave your middle exposed. Buying the smallest size you can fit into because you will soon be a smaller size is the wrong tactic for any coat. A well fitting coat with enough room for you will project confidence, and will not draw attention to your circular shape. Black is a good choice, and detailing can be on the shoulders or arms. Long coats will also just flow over your shape, and trench coats with low pockets are a good choice.
A mid-thigh or longer coat is the best coat for a shape with broad hips and thing shoulders. If you do wear short coats, try to get ones with vivid detail on the outside of the arms and sleeves that add width before narrowing into the wrist. Some of the waterproof coats and leather coats have this effect naturally because of their material, but avoid elastic waists, as they draw extra attention to your bum. Also, in the long coats avoid tight belts.

Step 4: Price points

A good coat can take you through a lot of years, and even the inexpensive ones will not need to be repurchased if they fit well. This makes spending on a coat an investment, so it’s reasonable to spend more than you would for, say, a shirt or a pair of pants. The right one will keep you feeling warm and looking cool all winter long. Good luck!